(upbeat music) – Hi, everyone, this is Nicky Doll from RuPaul’s Drag Race season 12. Today we’re gonna be recreating my cape look. I’m excited to do it. Watch me go from this, to this. I usually use a prosthetic adhesive to block my brows because it really gives me the security that my brow is gonna stay covered the whole time.
I like to use my loose powder with a little bit of tint because it really gives an extra color and helps starting to remove the actual color of the brow. Might sounds painful, but it’s actually very relaxing to do that.
So now that I’ve done that, you wanna use your main foundation. I like to use a lighter. Basically you’re gonna reactivate the hydration that is in there, to have it a little bit less dry. And now this is the time where you do not look cute anymore for the rest of the tutorial.
You’re welcome. Because I’m French but I do have a very strong Spanish heritage, this can be a big issue for drag. So what I do is that I like to use a beard blocking that is kinda like an orange concealer.
Girl, when I started drag, trust me, she was not fish. All right, so now that I, covered half my face with the foundation, I’m gonna start to slowly blend it and start to contour and highlight. (upbeat music) So I don’t know if you guys have the same issue as me, but every time that I apply my foundation, my nose start running, and people have been saying that I might be allergic to makeup.
But because that was a truth that I didn’t wanna hear, I keep going. Do not forget your ears. There’s nothing worse than having, like, a red ear when your foundation is perfect. I didn’t put any on the forehead because I’m gonna start to contour.
I’m using a very dark, warmish chocolate, and that’s gonna help me to really reduce the area that I don’t wanna highlight. Female persons have smaller foreheads, smaller nose, slimmer jaw. And you wanna recreate that.
And you erase the work of God, just for the night. Should be looking like that and leaving kind of like a croissant. How cliche. You just go here. Know that if you do a lot of this, your foundation will look perfect from the front, but once you’re gonna look on the side, all the tricks will be showing.
So you wanna be mindful also of the foundation color that you choose and your blending skills. (soft music) So now I’m using a concealer that is probably one or two shade lighter than me. So you wanna highlight also here and link those two triangle.
That’s gonna make those two area even more seamless. You wanna highlight a little bit on the chin. And you wanna cut your cheek contour. You don’t wanna put too much, otherwise you’re gonna look like a, a swordfish.
You know, no judgment, you can. It’s just not my look for today. You see like my chin, all the contour that I did completely disappeared. But if I use my contour sponge and I just go over it, it’s back.
You see? I like to use my highlight sponge on my eyelid. It’s gonna be a nice primer for my, my eyeshadow. So now you should be having, a nice contour. Some messy hair. And then a nice highlight area.
I’m gonna use my contour shade that is a little bit darker than what I used around my face, just because you wanna really snatch that nose. So I like to use a little brush that is in that shape. And I’m basically gonna link the older shape of my natural brow right here, and then go and snatch, snap up.
And then you wanna also make the tip of your nose disappear a little bit. And then what I like to do is that I use a brush with a little bit of my lighter concealer, and then I just redefine the bone of my nose, right here.
And right here. Blend right there. I like to add a little bit more highlight, just because, you know, you want the makeup to pop on stage. So what I do is that I use straight white, and I’m just gonna go and dab, ooh, that’s white.
You know, I like to use different shade of highlight and different shade of contour to have the most like defined result. You’re just gonna go and tap, tap, tap, tap. So now that I’ve done that, I’m just gonna clean the nose.
You wanna be careful with this one, because if you go and you blend it a little bit on the side, you’re literally gonna remove all your work. Just for this line, you wanna make sure that it stays where it was positioned.
And then you’re just gonna go and blend the edges. So now I’m gonna use my loose powder, my sponge, and I’m just gonna put all the powder that I can in there and bake. Again don’t forget, this is a stage makeup.
This is not a regular, I go to the office from nine to five makeup. So obviously you would look crazy at 12:00 p.m wearing this. But at 12:00 a.m with the right amount of shots you’ll look just fine. And then am gonna just use a brush.
And go over very quickly, the contour. (upbeat music) Now let’s start to work on my number one enemy, the brow. One is always adopted, the other is always very upset or shady. So for that what I do is that I use actually just my regular contour.
And I use a little brush like this. And that’s gonna help me to basically frame my face. So my natural brow was here and so basically am gonna start my brow at the middle of my natural brow. And then go on top of my natural brow, and do it here.
And then put the tail and just let the brush guide it. Whoo she’s upset. For this particular look am gonna create a small brow, very small tail. That’s for my cape look. My main inspiration one, Joan of Arc.
So as you know guys am French and I wanted to, pay homage on each of my look to every proudful woman. So when I got the theme, the first name that popped in my head was of course the leader of the revolution.
And also the brow look crazy right now but I will show you that I don’t really care about the shape until I keen around the edges. Now you can see like this a very tiny tail, a very big stomach. It’s basically my winter body.
So what you do, don’t be scared, concealer and which is gonna, clean under it. Just do a little here. Sometimes you will see people online that will do it in a matter of seconds and you will still be there at 2:00 a.
m. trying to figure out what was wrong. That’s usually me. So find what works for you and then go with it. I like to use my little highlight and now you wanna do the same on the upper lid side, which we know, is not gonna happen.
And then once you’re right here I like to create like a little strokes just to basically recreate hair. (upbeat music) For this look I wanted to create something that was kinda like a reverse smoky. So we gonna have like a very highlighted crease but with a very smoky under eye.
I wanted to give that power to Joan of Arc’s eye I’m gonna use some of like those transition colors in order to create really a shadow. That doesn’t really look like make up. It almost looks like it’s where my brow bone starts.
So you gonna go at the head of your brow, very freshly designed brow. Almost at the very tip of you contour and you gonna start to create the shadow. You see you start seeing that shadow. I took this trick from, analyzing how Mathew used to do loopholes phase.
You know like there is a lot of looks of repo where he literally looked like he was in drag but he had no make up on because he was so nude and neutral. And I was so fascinated by how, it was possible to create, the basically a fake face with no very impactful colors.
And then you start to link basically you create a half moon. I know I like to do is that I go at the outer corner of my eye and I start to sketch it out. And that gives you right that little smoke. Usually when I wanna check if the effects work I do my Melania Trump eye.
You know which is always trying to figure out where she met you and she’s always like this. So you do that eye and you just smoke. Hmm, did we met last thanksgiving? I don’t know. And now what you gonna do is that you gonna take a smaller brush that has a little more pointy tip.
I always love to use with my skin tone purple because it basically gives like a warm very flattering color to contour. So I use a little bit of the brown and a little bit of the purple. I basically gonna create like a line.
And it’s funny because when you mix the brown and the purple you end up not having hmm purple color but more of like a shadow. And that’s really what I try to do during this whole process is to recreate like human shadows and not like colors yet.
I’m just using a blending brush just to merge all the colors together. So now am gonna use a very light concealer to cut my crease and am gonna use a very flat brush. We just did a line right there that is very dark.
And you wanna recreate a really sharp line under it. And that is basically gonna be on your crease. Which is probably like at least an inch higher than my actual natural crease. Biological woman have usually whiter eyes so that is gonna give you a more feminine aesthetic.
And now am basically gonna blend the concealer with the outer corner. To not have any harsh line and kinda have like a more seamless transition. So what am gonna do is that am gonna go back with my transition colors that I use to cut my crease.
And am just gonna go back over it. So now that I took care of the upper part of the eye am gonna start framing the under eye because not only I open my eyes on top I really open it also on the bottom.
So am gonna go back with my transition color and am gonna start to recreate a lower lash line. Then you just go right there, and you sketch it out. Now you look like a fool, you are in the right direction.
Take a little flatter brush and am gonna use my purple. And am really just gonna go over what I just did. So I usually like to do my eye liner with a pen and just because it’s faster. (soft music) So you gonna start your frame, right here.
Oh you create a line like that. And I like to start with the outer corner because it’s gonna allow me to control the thickness. You want to connect that dot to the center of your eye. Up, up, and here, that’s my trick.
You have a lot of fold right? So you don’t want to go in there because it’s going to be a complete mess. So you want to stop and then you want to lift your head and then go, right there. You see it looks, it doesn’t look straight here, but if I open my eyes, it is straight.
So now you’re just want to feel the liner. Alright, so now that I’ve done the liner that is very dramatic, we’re going to go and put a white eyeliner under it and that’s going to create some extra sharpness.
I like to use a liquid white eyeliner. You just gonna go and outline, later. And then before it dries, you go with an airbrush, and then you just blend a little bit because you don’t want to have too much of a harsh white line.
I also like to do a line right there under the eye. I know I look crazy. I’m just gonna apply some mascara. I’m gonna go back over with my purple and I’m just gonna go over there, and just smoke it out even more.
And now that I defined that white line, I am not worried to go under it right there. And smoke it all the way to the nose, you see? So I get a lot sometimes that when I’m in drag people think that I’m a bitch or I’m not sweet or anything like that and I’m actually a very sweet person, I just paint very severely.
So don’t be scared. If I’m at the club, I promise you, you can come and talk to me. You just want to blend the line to make sure you have no harsh line at all. Alright, so now we are going to apply some black eye pencil in the waterline because I don’t want to mess up with my skin.
I you I like to use my sponge and pull my cheek like this. Don’t be scared to go all the way to the root of your lashes. Otherwise, you’re going to have this weird line and it’s going to go in between your under eye makeup and your wider like makeup.
And you want to smoke it out. I actually like to go with a very small brush and use a black eyeshadow and define a little bit more with like, whoo she’s smoked out. Take a little blending brush, and smoke it out.
And now we’re going to use a white eyeshadow under our eyebrow. The highlight and the contour is really the key to create a little bit more contrast in your drag makeup. Otherwise you’re just going to look flat and that’s not the goal.
You see the difference right here. (upbeat music) I like to use a blush that is not too pink and not too orange so like the perfect foil. Because with my skin tone it really helps to blend the contour and highlight together.
And I like to put it almost like where I put my contour and not too much here because if you cover your highlight area with blush, you’re going to remove the space that you created with the highlight.
I am obsessed with highlighting into my eye and I’m just gonna go with a brush that is a pretty flat top and I go like this. On your mustache. Trust me the first thing to start sweating on that face is the mustache area.
Right here and then the contour. What I do for my eye is that I usually use some very light gray contacts because I feel like light eyes really gives more space for the colors to express itself. So I’m just gonna go and apply my contact.
You see the difference here. You can see the purple no more you can see the contour more. That also what makes me look like a total bitch. So I do my own lashes. Basically what I do is that I double triple stack lashes together and then I create spikes at the common points of it.
You just gonna apply your glue. And I’m going to put the lash on the liner and not follow the natural lash line. So now we have so much lashes on the top that you want to add a little bit on the bottom.
I basically cut tiny spikes like this, and I add them on the lower part. Three spikes of lashes under your eye. You want to have the longest one in the middle, and then two smaller one on the outer corner.
Right here, the last one. You see gives you more like a doll, kind of like creepy, eye. But it gives a little bit more contrast and more texture to the eye. I use three different shade of highlights and I build basically the lighter and lighter as as I go.
So I started with like a pretty warm color. I use a blending brush and I just go right here right after the blush and right before the eye makeup and I just go boop. And then as I go with the leftover on my brush and start to blend it out.
And then you also want to go under the Bravo and a bit on top of it. And then I use a very white one, but I really just go on the center because that’s way too light for my skin tone. So now that I’ve done this, I’m gonna actually accentuate the contour of my nose and then start to highlight the center of my nose.
I use a brown eyeshadow to create the contour of my nose. I use a blending brush, like so. And then I take a brown that is not too dark. And I’m just going to go up completely erase that area. You use a blending brush, you blend it out, and we’re going to use the contour.
Then I’m just going to go boop. You basically just have to do your lips. I like to use a coffee type of color because it really creates the shadow and to extend the lip shape. You’re going to use a blending brush and just go.
I like to use different shades of new to really build up to contour. So I’m going to start with the darker one, applied all over. Now I’m going to use the middle color. And now we start to have an ombre.
And you can always use your blending brush and go between the colors. And now I’m just going to use a very light color and just go right here. (upbeat music) This is like a very classic retro 90s runway.
I tried to apply it to my Joan of Arc. So I’m gonna go put on my wig, my accessories, my outfits and I’ll be back. And voila, this is the makeup that I did for my cape look on the runway. I was paying homage to Joan of Arc Divonne Jalista, very 90s Mugler run way.
I hope you guys enjoyed it. I hope you guys learn some tricks or two on how I do my makeup and I cannot wait to see you on the road. Bye.