Home Makeup Tutorials Old Hollywood Black and White Makeup Tutorial of Merle Oberon | Troy...

Old Hollywood Black and White Makeup Tutorial of Merle Oberon | Troy Jensen Iconic Makeover

Old Hollywood Black and White Makeup Tutorial of Merle Oberon | Troy Jensen Iconic Makeover

So am I looking at you or am I looking at the camera? My name is Troy Jensen I’m a celebrity makeup artist and a photographer and today we’re going to transform Susan Yara into Merle Oberon who is an iconic beauty from the 1930s She was an actress and I consider her Hollywood royalty This might look like Halloween makeup but it’s not.

Today I’m with the talented Troy Jensen and it’s a special treat because he has the ability to turn a woman into an icon with his makeup and photography skills Merle starred in one of my favorite classic films called Wuthering Heights and Kate Bush wrote a song about it It’s a love story between Merle and Sir Laurence Olivier and it ends with sort of a ghostly twist Today we’re gonna create that same kind of ambiance with this house and rather than shoot it in a studio where it can be really stark and I’m really gonna try to conjure that energy and that spirit with Susan and we’ll see what we get you know? The look that we’re doing If you tap that right there and scroll that way Keep going keep going keep going keep going keep going That’s Merle Oberon Isn’t she pretty? Doesn’t she look like Susan? That’s what we’re creating today The transformation starts with hair So yeah when I do shoots I usually do the hair the makeup I’ll style it I guess you could say I’m a bit of a control freak A bit Then we move to the makeup The makeup back in the 1920s and 30s It was you know it was black and white film so the technique was a little bit different than they do today The makeup was much thicker They would work in black and white tones Her makeup won’t really look that attractive in colored lighting she’s gonna look a bit sickly and a bit ghostly but once I light her and once we get her in the scene it’ll all come together and there’s little touches that I have to do right before shooting like add Vaseline on the eyelid on the top of the cheekbone, down the center of the nose Just sort of pop the features but until then she’s gonna look a little sickly The thing about the makeup in the 1930s is it’s really glossy and shiny and yes I have to wear glasses cause I’m completely blind You look cute in glasses Did you put something in there? Yeah I put a little bit of the Dior oil and just some very pale pancake makeup because the thing about with this makeup we’re gonna be spraying oil and stuff on it and if I do just a liquid base It’s gonna go everywhere You’re basically gonna be pale and sickly for about a week This just doesn’t come off You’re fine with that right? Yeah that’s cool By adding the shimmer the glow kinda comes through the makeup so it’ll look more like skin This is what we call beating the face What’s that do? You know what it does is it imprints my pores into your pores You know what I mean? So it doesn’t just look like base It looks like skin Wow Well it’s all about like highlights and contour you know It’s not about bringing life to the face it’s about actually working with very very strong lighting because I wanted to stay really light I’m using actually white matte eyeshadow with a little bit of translucent powder because even translucent powder would add color to your face I’m going to dinner like this I dare you to go to dinner like this I’m going to dinner like this Adding just a touch of silver Mm Some shimmer More of a to get the grayness too to really cool down your complexion This is an old palette from Stila that I just cannot get rid of really pop those cheekbones contouring from the bridge of the nose to the eyes Do I get to wear lashes? Oh hello you and your tricky questions Course crease so then we hit it with the lights it really pops the contour Oh wow that really changes the look of my eyes So she has these like thin long brows right? Shh So I noticed you wet a lot of your powders I have more control when I wet the shadows and we’re doing this shape was very trendy in the 1930s slightly rounding off the outer edges they called it the smear Look up And it became more exaggerated in the 40s with like Joan Crawford and the 20s you the little you saw how it looks like they put a little dark here dark here and a little dark here it almost looked like little little it was called the bee sting and then this lip this shape came and this was actually a very scandalous lip shape this would be like wearing like pasties out in public Ooh back then And it was very that kind of girl wore it Have you heard of OCC? Mhm Obsessive Compulsive It’s basically a liquid lipstick But they dry kind of matte It’s almost like foundation the texture of it This is a tricky lip to do cause it’s so dark that it has to be perfect And after I put it on you you can’t do anything You can’t drink you can’t eat you can’t anything And I’m using a little bit of black eyeshadow to kind of matte out the texture and really intensify the depth of the color Pretty flawless Okay let’s do lashes I’ve never seen that done with a sharpie before It’s one of my pet peeves when you see The line the lash you know We’re doing the last lash I doubled them One gave more thickness to your lashes and then this is just about length and because there’s not a lot of liner this is a very difficult lash to do because it’s all about that first placement and if I don’t get it right I’m basically screwed She’s so into herself right now I’m so into myself right now.

She’s living Merle lives Hair and makeup is set and then we actually have to backtrack When I do a shoot I usually prep about a week before And Susan did not make the fitting so of course the clothes that I pulled I pulled some really beautiful gowns from For the Stars Fashion House and they didn’t fit so we have to actually go back and try some other gowns on her to re-fit her because she didn’t show up on Thursday and do my fitting so now we have to start all over again Damn you It wasn’t on purpose but that does mean I get to see a place most of his clients don’t When I’m creating a really iconic look I come to this showroom called For the Stars They make clothes for everyone from Katy Perry to Lady Gaga Nicki Minaj, Beyonce wore that for her tour They’re made by a few designers from different parts of the world and they do these really beautiful showgirl bodysuits to this I shot this on Courtney Bingham for Valentine’s Day We did a really sexy video and it’s a bodysuit all in pink feathers I think we pulled some really great pieces for the shoot today We picked the gowns and then head over to the photo shoot at jewelry designer Cynthia Bach’s house This is rock crystal with diamonds I definitely want to use this piece because it almost looks like a vintage piece It does, rock crystal was very prevalent in the 1920s The work looks very much like my house All the rich antiquities and Baroque styles I design it I can’t wait so beautiful yeah Remember you keep your chin up to the light a little bit more Yeah And then just drop that finger down Angle the top of your head towards me Right there So pretty I like it when everything kind of works out To have a vision and then there’s makeup and products and hair and lighting and film and then we actually created it You know what I mean? Yeah.

We did it I’m really happy with it I mean where’s my camera I have to look at the pictures


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